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Could Teflon tape or pipe sealant on the treads of the sending unit be messing with the connectivity of the ground?
Try an ohmmeter between the case of the sender and a good clean ground on the engine. There should be next to no resistance.
On my 284 (2006) tractor the oil sender had two connections. I got them reversed one time and boy did that cause goofy readings on the dash! I thought the two were power and ground, turns out one was for the oil light and one was for the gauge. (one was a switch and the other was a variable resistor) Swapped them back and all was well. They both ground through the body of the sender to the engine block.
Did you get a manual with the machine?
Is there a number on the current filter? If so, post it and we may be able to come up with something for you.
Milky appearance usually indicates water in the oil. For tractors parked outside water usually gets into the transmission because the shift lever boot has cracked. It could also be a bad gasket or just condensation. In any case the fluid should be changed and if you can get a look at the insides, especially near the bottom to see if there has been any rust damage.
Does your transmission share fluid with the hydraulic system? If so, that is another source of contaminants.
Do you know for sure that the current oil is the proper product for your application? If not, that is another good reason to change it out.
Hey thanks for posting the photos. I never would have guessed that there was only a lowly “O” ring between the lube oil and the fuel. Mine has been overflowing the lube oil for a couple of years but I figured it was the injector pump, not the lift pump. I just changed it often and lived with it.
Because of your post, I took mine apart and even though the “O” ring made contact with the plunger shaft, it felt like it was none too tight. I found a replacement in my assortment. It was a little thicker cross section which made it a bugger to get pushed into the groove. There is now a much better seal between the lift pump body and the plunger shaft.
Like you, only time will tell if this is the fix or not.
Another option would be to install an electric lift pump and remove this one all together. It should be easy enough to manufacture a cover plate shaped like the gasket.
Thanks again.
Here is a picture from my Operation Manual. It definitely shows the lower seal with the spring down and the upper seal with the spring up. Note that they show the same arrangement for the double seal on the hub spindle.
I probably followed this setup when I put it back together, I simply don’t remember.
My previous comment about the backlash was from memory and was in error (CRS strikes again). Actually it is a shim number 2 in this image. Now that the memory is jogged, I remember laughing at the gasket mentioned above as it does not seal anything. At least on my tractor the holes did not go all the way through into the housing, thus no exposure to oil. :unsure:
In any case, if the seals are running in a groove they won’t seal. Aftermarket seals of the same dimensions but of different design (double lip, thicker or thinner, etc.) may be helpful in finding a solution. If there is a groove and it can not be avoided speedi sleeve or new housing are about your only choices. 🙁
It has been a couple of years since I did mine and and I don’t specifically remember which way the seals went.
Looking at the parts diagram and thinking about the direction the oil is flowing it would seem to me that you would want the springs down. The spring side is usually considered to be the “inside” of the seal.
The lower seal (thick one) would be doing the work of holding the oil in the axle and the upper seal (thin one) is acting as a dust seal with the added protection of the felt washer.
In my case the felt washer got torn while I was doing a lot of dirt work and the grit got in and destroyed the top seal but that did not cause it to leak until it worked its way down to the bottom seal. by the time it started leaking the damage to the shaft housing (where the lips of the seal ride) had been done. I don’t think this surface has any kind of hardening done to it. I had to special order a speedi sleeve from a bearing house. Expensive but less than a new shaft housing. I also ordered seals from them to have extras on hand and to see if they had the lip in a slightly different location. They did but not far enough different to get far enough from the groove for my liking so I went with the speedi sleeve.
Also don’t forget that the “Gasket” (#7 in the diagram) under the steering arm is used to set the backlash of the gears inside. So if you replace it, be sure to look closely at the old one to see how many were used originally.
The right side on my tractor is now starting to leak a little. Guess I am going to have to get back into this again.
On mine the seals had worn a significant groove in the metal. I fixed it with a speedi sleeve.
Also a seal from a different manufacturer might have the sealing lip in a slightly different place which can be used to get away from a groove warn by the old seal.
Try heating up the cylinder on the outside of the threaded area. This should cause it to expand and maybe it will release its grip on the threads of the gland end. Also try tapping around the outer side of the threaded area with a hammer. Like an impact wrench to “jar” things loose.
Depending on the style and quality of your spanner wrench, a cheater pipe for more torque may be required. Be careful with that though.
Good luck
Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the hand primer pump! It has been so long since I have had to use it. If you have one, there is no need to spin the engine to get air out of the system at least as far as the bleeder screw.
On my Jinma 284 the hand pump is mounted vertically. It has a round knob that is knurled around the edge and has a spring underneath. You “unscrew” the knob and when it is free the spring will push the plunger up.
The bleeder screw with the ring on it is to the left and slightly above the hand pump.
Loosen the bleeder and pump the plunger until you get a steady stream of fuel from the bleeder screw.
On the last pump down, hold the plunger down and screw it in until tight then tighten the bleeder screw.
I don’t know if the hand primer is capable of pushing fuel through the injection pump and all the way up to the injector fittings. I doubt it, but would definitely give it a try.
Also a thumbs up to checking the sediment bowl, the screen in the sediment bowl and this also might be a good time to go ahead and replace the spin on fuel filter.
This also brings up some advice about fuel filters that I will pass on. I used to work for a Caterpillar dealer and this comes from Caterpillar. (this is in my own words as I don’t have access to the actual policy)
There is an “old time” practice of filling a new fuel filter with fuel before spinning it on. The idea is so that you don’t get any more air in the system than necessary. However CAT says DO NOT DO THIS! The reason is that you are introducing unfiltered fuel into the filter where it can get directly into the injection pump. CATs recommendation is to carefully clean the filter base before removing the old filter. Remove and discard the old filter and any fuel it contains. Carefully check for any contamination on the filter base and screw on a new clean empty filter. Then use the hand pump to draw fuel through the filter and purge any air out of the system at the bleeder.
The tolerances for clearance between the internal parts of modern injector pumps and injectors is incredibly small and any dirt can block passages or cause premature wear of the parts. Parts are expensive, fuel and filters are cheap.
There is a chance that once air got to the injector pump it did not push any into the lines that go to the injectors. I would definitely attempt to start the engine once you are sure all the air has been purged as far as the bleeder screw. I wouldn’t mess with the injector fittings unless I had to.
If indeed it ran out of fuel you most assuredly have air in the lines.
Start by checking to see that fuel is flowing through the sediment bowl.
Then open the bleeder screw on the side of the injection pump. Mine has a ring attached to it to make it easier. If fuel does not flow out on its own, turn the engine over a few seconds with the starter, that should get fuel flowing. Once you have good bubble free flow there close the screw.
You can try starting the engine at this point but it probably won’t start.
If not, you need to crack open the fittings between the hard lines and the injectors. Be very careful not to do any damage to the lines or injectors. I would do one at a time, crack open, turn engine with starter until fuel runs out. Re-tighten, CAREFULLY.
After you get fuel coming out of the injector fittings you should be able to hit the glow plugs for the appropriate time and then start up.
One trick I do is heat the glow plugs then pull the decompression lever and hit the starter. Once the engine is spinning up to speed (usually in 1 or 2 seconds), release the decompression lever. This allows the full momentum of the engine to hit that first firing piston at full speed. Makes it fire off easier. I always start with the hand throttle pushed forward just enough to move the foot pedal about 1/2″.
Let us know if you get it running or if you have any more questions.
