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well I still have a rubber fuel line in between the tank and the bowl that I wanted to get rid of but a ford filter for a 8n worked to the stock brackets just got a flare to barb fitting and cut off the banjo fitting on the outlet of the old fuel line.
makes me wonder how long the original chinese junk oil was in the crankcase,but it dont matter now.
Maybe there was some trash in the oil that made it to the oil hole in the crank that feeds the bearing .I sure hope not. that would be a crank and and bearings.have you tryed one of those mechanics stethoscope maybe you can narrow it down some.harbor freight has them cheap.
as I was looking threw the post I did not see anything about oil pressure.if you think a piston rod bearing is knocking? was there anything that would have caused this kind of failure? lack of oil,water in oil.if all you got is a oil light ,place a mech. gauge to get a reading.
I would look at the fuel system, I believe you have solid lifters and why would a push rod bend unless something was not put together correctly from the factory which I think would have showed up much earlier.I know that the adjustments on the lifters has been a issue but as for my 2 tractors were only talking a few thousands one way or the other.nothing that would bend a rod. and if it comes and goes that should not be a solid lifter or rod.earlier you were talking soot maybe uncomplete combustion due to fuel injector,pump issue?and that might be a hard to start cause also.
that sounds good. though you might want to consider the relay will not take much amps to activate use the lead that goes to the glow plugs to go to the hot side of the button switch, then go to the relay.that way when the key switch is off, the power is off to the glow plug switch .I prefer to keep to a minium stuff that is hot all the time. just a thought
I think that either would work as long as you can get compression between the 2 surfaces but the flat rubber seal would be my first choice.
in a pinch take a amp meter like you would have in the dash and place #10 stranded wire with some gator clips on it most of them are 30 amp .I keep one loose to check for load on dc stuff. something makes me think that the glow plugs are ok,your meter just can not see the resistance in them. I would concentrate on the wiring.alot of it on theses tractors are undersized to the things that pull some amps. I had a issue to the starter added a relay and my starting issues were gone.that might be your best choice even if a temp. one to see what it does,I have seen that it is better on the keyswitch life not running the amps thru it also.
a infinite reading will not pop a fuse but it will not heat either if you have infinite readings on the glow plugs and are still poping fuses you have more than on issue.if the golw plugs are reading close to 0 ohms they are internally shorted and that will pop a fuse.I seem to think that good glow plugs are less that 20 ohms so there is not a big window.
