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I think in the past people have deadheaded the hydros by having the hoses to the loader reversed or the control valve go bad ,that blows the hydro pump seal allowing oil to run into the crankcase. I changed out the oil pressure gauge to a psi one, if you do not want to do that add a tee or if there is a spare oil port somewhere add a mechanical gauge as a way to double check electric one. I will try to remember to look for head torque values.
Before you go to far , since you have things semi figured out . Why don’t you pull the valve cover again and retorque the head , if it has not be done before and set the valves so you will know that it has been done. That is something that should be done at 50 to 100 hrs. when new. But I guess you do not know that it was preformed so do it yourself so you know. It might get rid of that leak too.
this is tractor related so this section might not be the best place to post ,try maint. or repairs , I think this part was for non tractor related projects. more details could make someone else’s repair more easily done. just sayin.
There is a company in Canada called (asian tractor parts) they have some of the lesser know brand parts, but I do not know if they have those. but maybe they will know who does. good luck
look at your hydro oil level some have had issues with hydro pumps going bad and dumping hydro oil in crankcase. some of these chinese engines have a thing about checking the dipsticks . If I pull and read mine it will show overfull , what has to be done is pull the stick wipe it off reinsert it and then read the level to get a good reading, also if yours is a screw down stick do not screw it down read it on top of the threads.
make sure when you do that . that the fuel shut off on the injector pump is wire back in the off position so it will not start. you also could remove the glow plugs or injectors.
I think just to be able to write this off as a possible problem, if you have a tread pitch gauge you might want to check the nipple that the oil filter goes on they can be metric or sae . I know I converted my filter housing to sae so it will take a more standard filter that what the manf. had used. Then double check the filter itself to make sure the are the same. Some filter threads are close between metric and sae but will bind usually so if that is happening maybe your not as tight as thought.
I can not remember what the tags are but there was a difference between the tag on the valve cover and what was casted into the block of the engine on mine. The numbers were the same but the letters were different. If they ever made a collectable anything how would someone ever say it has all matching numbers, hahahahha
