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sorry I did not address the pulling the rad. if you have a socket that will fit the crank pulley bolt with out hitting the rad. then no. most people like to change all fluids around 50 hr. so if you are close pulling the radiator and rinsing it out is not a bad idea these engines have some casting sand in them when new so washing it out will save the water pump .I think I changed coolant at 100 hours also and have not had any water pump issues 500 hrs. later
first make sure that your fuel cut off(engine stop) is fully engaged pull the valve cover. On a warm engine retorque the head. Then turn engine over with the trans. in neutral and look at the valves when both valve rockers will rattle on one cylinder check the lash adjust as necessary go to next cylinder. Hopefully you will not have a cylinder that the valves are so tight that they will not rattle. But if you do you have found a problem. remember better a little loose than to tight.
well I do not know what engine you have but about 2500 is what they are governed to run at max. These engines run well at 1800 to 2000.
chances it is ok but when you have a minute use a straight edge on the block. I have seen raised places around the bolt holes. Was this engine overheated?
I have a 2005 le 204a lenar (dong feng). I pulled out just the pto shaft to have it drilled for a over run clutch ( it just has a single stage clutch) . It came straight out , I remember filing down sharp edges so a new seal would slide in easier without pinching. I do not know anything other than that, I wish I could help you more.
with that said it might be possible to create linkage or a cable to make it work. I use mine to top off the oil filter after a oil change, I find that it does not do much good as a start assist in cold weather , but to each his own ideas.
yea I know but look at it this way a retorque now and the bonus of setting your valves easily or possibly a head gasket replacement later with all the water issues that go along with it. yea that should do it. Is it done yet?
ok I have heard of tractors that had conflicts in making linkages line up and work and not hooking them up. But I am pretty sure about what you are writing about as being the compression release. I suppose that once you get the valve cover off you could try to figure a way to do away with it and plug up the hole, It would make access easier in the future. Is there a bolt on the lever that you could remove then slide the valve cover to the rear over the valve release rod , it has been to long I can not remember exactly.
I assume that what you are writing about is the compression release, some tractors this is a tricky thing to remove and restore to where it needs to be. Before you start to remove it look over it closely , If I remember right the is a cotter pin that needs to be removed on a lever on the rear of the valve cover which separates the linkage from the compression releases rod that compresses the exhaust valves. I have only done this once and it has been a few years back so I hope I go it right.
