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if you have a air compressor use LOW pressure and blow back into the fuel line to the tank with the fuel cap off .Maybe you can free up the blockage so it will drain faster, and if it does you will know where you need clean . I assume that you have checked your fuel turn off valve and it is not just partially open .
some of the hoses around the pump have screens inside the fittings ,I would start at the tank and go and check each end of the hoses to the pump.
I have 2 Chinese tractors and neither is a jinma so I can not say for sure,but at 35 hp it might not be common sump. to check look at the transmission oils color and compare it to the oil in the rear end ,you said the one oil was milky hopefully the rear end is dark like 90 wt. or vice versa.If they are the same you have some rinsing to do.And if you have a loader that needs to be rinsed also.hopefully someone else who has more knowledge of that tractor will chime in. good luck
yeah you need to get that water out, I hope your tractor is not a common sump .and yes it could be a issue with the pto if it is common sump .but as to the pto check first and see if there is a pin that holds the pto engagement lever to a shaft that extends out of the tractors gear housing. I have had them give me trouble when the even only partially sheard. hopefully you do not have a rust issue cause of the water.
just gear oil 85w90w. I think a gl-5 there should not be any yellow metal in there .but if you want to be safe use a gl-4 gear oil. What I know about that is some gl-5 oils use chlorine to formulate the oil and that is corrosive to copper brass and such. I have seen oils that are rated gl-5 and 4 so I assume that they are non-corrosive plus meet higher stress levels. anyone else on this? I am not a oil guru.
I have a 2006 Foton ft540a and the front axle on mine actually has 3 places on the front axle to have oil.You have one at each wheel then the center gear assembly. The ones at the wheels have a drain at the bottom of the wheel steering joint assembly with a fill level plug around 5 inches from the top. The one in the center has a drain in the bottom of the gear case and a fill plug on top of the axle housing .I was told to get a flashlite and shine it in the fill hole and fill till it covers the axle shaft. Mine has a site glass for a fill level for the axle but it is useless. Yours might have a dipstick which would be better.
whatever muffler you find check the displacement of the engine it is designed for and get as close or slightly larger .They have to move x amount of exhaust so the pipes should be in the ballpark also. And a gas burner muffler should work, remember to get a crooked weather head or flapper if upswept.
make sure that the reservoir oil level is at or slightly below oil level marks some seals are not designed to have oil standing over the seal lips.
they are not that bad to do make sure that the ram is not bent if it is a hydro shop is next. I would measure seals first and make sure they match the replacement seal sizes, unless you are sure the replacements are right before ordering.
