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<!–more–>I now have 1400 hours on my ball to slug driveshaft conversion and it continues to run/shift flawlessly.
My front wheel drive rebuild also continues to work flawlessly.
That rebuild found that a brass Bellville washer behind a spider gear in the differential was completely destroyed or most likely never installed from the factory and the excessive clearance reduced gear mesh eventually destroying those gears. The other Bellville brass washer in that assembly was pristine hence my suspicion it was never installed during factory assembly.Mr. Privett;Thanks for the response. I may redesign the mounting locations and use pegs for the hooks to spread the loads.
Lot of questions for a post I figured nobody would respond to.Mostly curious if others had the same problems. Some of your questions would be answered in the hyperlink I gave.
The springs always break at the hooks.
My newly ordered springs will not be Hillman,but Gardner assuming they are both Chinese made.Slightly smaller wire diameter.And since spring steel is much harder than the soft steel attachment points I find this breakage puzzling.The return spring on my Toyota pickup clutch pedal spring continued to work after 450,000 miles of use without breaking .
<p style=”text-align: right;”>Mr. Truett;</p>
I also have made inquiries 18 months ago to a site moderator without any response. Thankyou for any help you might manage to make. My complaint was about images being limited to 1000kb.I did a repair on my Jinma 254 front end about 2 years ago and posted details along with as many pictures as this site would allow.
The spider gears in the front axle third member failed after 1000 hours because the factory forgot to install brass Bellville washers.
Please contact me if you need help.Try this link( https://www.ctoa.net/ctoanew/topic/jinma-254-front-differential-rebuild/#post-49948
Jmayp;Great you improved your starter system.
Cannot help on Voltage gage discrepancy. When I modified my starting system as you did I did not notice any change in my voltage reading. My gage is very erratic anyway.
You may want to confirm 13.8-14.2 voltage readings at the battery terminals to insure the alternator is charging the battery.The Relay is a good modification.
Also add a battery disconnect. They are great for disconnecting high battery energy from the electrical system in emergencies or during boost/charging situations.
Here is another link…… if it will post.
Thanks for the response Mr. Privett.
The essence of this website is member participation. It won’t survive without active involvement.
So no one knows who the moderator is? Then it must not be a real, live moderator and only an algorithm.
This website owner offers no human interaction other than accepting lifetime members money.
American capitalism at its best.
