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Good move cleaning the breather. If it is plugged that could contribute to the dipstick blowout problem. That white gunk is water mixed with oil vapor. Normal for a tractor that is not used much.You might have fixed it with that on item. Put it to work and monitor it closely before getting too carried away with other testing. As long as you have oil pressure the innards will be fine.
Power steering: First off do you have a front end loader?
Is there a quick connect coupler in the rubber hose pressure line that comes out of the pump? The factory couplers had issues and can damage the pump if they malfunction. This in turn can cause the front pump seal to blow out and dump hydraulic fluid into the engine crankcase.
Does the 3 point hitch rise properly?
There is a priority valve between the pump and the steering box that is supposed to give steering priority over the 3 point hitch. If you have a front end loader, it is in the circuit before the priority valve so it is normal to have the steering “fade” while the FEL is in motion.
You are correct to not jump to the point of replacing the cylinder just yet. When you had fluid coming out of the lines was the engine running?
You should be able to jack the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel with the engine off and have the steering cylinder move the wheels. If it does not, then the cylinder is suspect but not condemned yet…
There were several variations of cylinders used on various brands/years produced by Jinma so if the cylinder is bad you will want to be very careful about getting the correct part.
If you think the cylinder might be bad, check with local hydraulic shops. Some will refuse to work on metric stuff but others are quite capable of fixing your cylinder if repair parts are available.
Steering Wheel: It is on a tapered shaft that also has splines. It can be a pain to remove but if you have a proper wheel puller it will pop off. Yes, just remove the horn button and the nut then use the puller. I have put anti-seize on mine and it still won’t come off without a puller. Just the nature of the beast. There should be threaded holes in the hub of the wheel for you to screw the puller to. If you try to pull it from any other location on the wheel, you may damage it.
A couple of additional thoughts:
You may not have to do an actual compression test to get an idea of what is going on. If you open the breather can on the right side of the engine you might be able to listen to it and figure something out. (not running of course).
Before I forget, was there filter material in the breather?
Anyway, you could just remove the glow plugs and use a rubber tipped air nozzle to blow air into each cylinder. Listen at the breather to see if you can hear the amount of air going through each one. You may have to turn the engine over if a cylinder has the exhaust valve open it will blow air out of the muffler and you won’t get a fair comparison.
At only 125 hours it should not have worn the rings out but it is possible that it was never broke in properly and you have glazed cylinder walls. This will lead to blow by and high oil consumption.
You have the proper oil in it and I would follow Dave’s advice and “blow the cobbs out of it”. Get it up to temp (warm up at 1000 RPM until temp gauge is in the green). Then work it hard for an hour. Shut it down and let it cool off. Check the oil level and color. Turning black in a couple of hours is normal and does not mean the oil is used up. Monitor the hour meter to make sure it is working.
Change your fuel filter and make sure to use clean high quality fuel that has not been stored a long time.
Take a look at the documents on my web site here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
The top one on the list will show the injection pump stuff on page 40. Lots of other good info in this document too.
Let us know if you have questions and if you need other info. I can scan anything I have and toss it on the web site.
Some black puffs of smoke on acceleration is quite normal for a diesel engine. It is the excess fuel not getting completely burned until the engine RPM comes up enough to suck in the appropriate amount of air. I wouldn’t worry about that unless it is smoking all the time, in which case it will be a fuel system issue (usually).
You have the same engine as I have in my 2006 284 tractor and your oil level is just fine. More concerning though is the oil coming out of the dipstick tube. That should not ever happen. The breather can on the right side of the engine just has a metal mesh filer in it (if I remember correctly). The breather air contains a fair amount of oil mist which collects on the filter, then drains back into the crankcase when the tractor is shut down.
Since you have oil coming out both places this seems to indicate you have a piston ring blow by problem. Excessive blow by will pressurize the crankcase and force excessive air out of the breather and that will carry extra oil mist with it. Really excessive blow by could maybe force oil out of the dipstick tube.
I think my next step would be to do a compression test and see if you can figure out if just one cylinder is leaking past the rings or if they all do.
Can you tell by looking at the engine if it looks like it has been taken apart?
How many hours on the meter?
Do you have a 2 cylinder or 3 cylinder engine?
What was the oil level on the dipstick after you put in the new oil?
Did you get an owners manual with the tractor? If not, post what engine make and model is in the tractor and we can go from there to find out oil capacity.
I have a Jinma 284 (2006) with a Y385T engine and it takes right at 6 quarts so your 1-1/2 gal. is probably about right. However if you have the 2 cylinder engine it my only require about 4 quarts.
What color is the smoke?
Did you let it run long enough to see what happens when it warms up?
Have you checked the coolant level in the radiator to see if it is low or has oil in it?
Generally oil in the cylinders causes blueish smoke, too much fuel causes black smoke and coolant/water will cause a whitish color to the smoke. Keep in mind that cold engines usually smoke white/grey until they warm up.
I have had problems getting the proper parts too. The dealer I bought the crate tractor from was really good with parts for the first couple of years I had the tractor. Then there were personnel changes in the parts and service departments and they both went downhill terribly. I don’t even bother with them any more as they usually get the part wrong or forget to ship the order or just plain don’t know what they are talking about. It is a shame too as I really like that dealership and they had very competitive prices.
Usually I go to Circle G because they have a great online parts catalog. They seem to be on the ball and ship quickly even though they are on the high side with prices. You get what you pay for.
Hydraulic hoses and fittings are the hardest to deal with. Jinma used a wide variety of fittings and styles of connection over the years. Seems different on every other piece of equipment. Some of it is kind of standard and most of it not. Metric and European variations seem most prevalent. I currently have a miss-mash of all kinds of connections and adapters on my machines.
As I understand it, Jinma went through several variations (upgrades?) in the loader cylinders over the years and the seals are not compatible between them and they had a lot of different connection types as well. I have been lucky and not had any problems other than hoses and the BOSS seals are mostly crap and don’t last long.
OK, got it scanned and it didn’t turn out too big so it should attach here.
If not, it is on my web site and you can get to it here:
I have one I could scan into a PDF document if that works for you. I can post it on my website for you to download.
When the outer bearing went it probably changed the angle of the axle just enough to put stress on the inner bearing and seals. Replacing those items is a good idea.l If you wind up taking the other side apart, you can use that axle to judge how much damage was done to the left one. Hopefully it will still be usable.
From what I can see in the pictures the inside of the rear end looks really good. Hopefully there is not any debris in the bottom and there was no metal floating around to damage the inner parts. You probably dodged a bullet there.
Good work!
While I have never seen a throw out bearing that was attached to the clutch disk, I suppose it is possible. If the bearing were supposed to be attached to the clutch, it would mean the bearing had to rotate all the time, and it wouldn’t last long.
If the tractor was stored in a wet location with the clutch pedal pushed in, it might rust together, but that would take extreme circumstances.
More likely is the bearing failed and seized up, then when it was pushed against the clutch, it welded itself to the clutch.
Please post a picture if possible. Hopefully someone with a 354 will add some information about how it is made.
