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Didn’t Northern Tools sell these originally? If so they can probably get you a manual.
Which engine can only be answered by looking at the tag on the engine. Post a picture and we can figure that out.
Oil filter is dependent on which engine. Yes, more than likely there is a domestic equivalent. I use Fram 3600 on my Jinma 284 with a Y385 engine (2006). Buy them at Walmart.
Diesel engines make the oil look black in just a few hours of use. This is normal and can not be used as a “need to change” indicator. Hours and type of use are the easiest methods. An oil analysis is the only true way to know when your oil is used up. Unfortunately they cost about the same as an oil change so….
I have posted the owners manual and other stuff for my tractor here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
If nothing else it will give you a starting point.
I’ve heard that this is a secret society and you needed a sponsor and know the secret handshake before being admitted.
Meetings are held behind hidden tool cabinet doors that are activated by retinal scanners.
Passwords and symbols are mentioned to the UN-initiated is such ways as the unwary never catch on to what is being presented.
To protect the members, no one person can know the names of more than two others in case someone is captured and forced to talk tracks.
Shhh!
It turns clockwise about 90 degrees. When you let go it goes back down.
The fuel won’t ignite without compression so you don’t want to spin the engine more than 3 or 4 revolutions or you can flood it out. To prevent this, hold the fuel cut off in the Stop Engine position while spinning the engine.
The starter will reach maximum speed in just one or two revolutions when there is no compression. This is a great help if you have a weak battery or starter (or it is really cold outside).
With a good battery and starter using this technique will start my 284 down to about 0°F with glow plugs alone. Below that and you have to put some heat into the engine first. I have a 1000 watt tank heater that will get it up to easy starting temp in about 30 minutes unless it is -20, then I let it heat for about an hour.
Most likely a decompression lever.
Does it look like the one in this picture?
It is used to reduce compression while spinning the engine with the starter. I use mine mostly in the winter. Pull the lever and hit the starter. After the engine is rotating at speed, drop the lever so that the engine will fire up.
The capacities listed in the manual put together by an importer conflicts with the manual that came with the tractor. I believe the one labeled jinma2-30A is more accurate.
Page 9 states 5L for all engines listed. This matches full on the dipstick of mine (including new filter)
No harm done, just drop enough to get it back to full on the dipstick and the blue smoking should go away.
The breather auto drains back to the crankcase so no worries there.
As I understand it, black smoke is un-burned (too rich) fuel. Normal under load until the RPM catches up to the injectors.
Blue smoke is usually associated with burning oil. Rings or valve seals are the usual culprits here although as you found out an over full sump will do the same thing.
White smoke on cold start is normal and will go away after the engine gets to operating temps. A warm engine that smokes white may be burning coolant. Cracked head, leaking gasket,or other cause.
If your engine was neglected in the past it may have stuck rings or carbon deposits in the head. In which case it won’t hurt to have some “snake oil” in the crankcase and/or the fuel. My experiences in this area are limited to gas engines so others will probably have better advice.
Remember the 284 has a max of only 28HP when everything is new. I regularly bog my engine down, especially when plowing snow or bladeing gravel.
Yikes! Too much oil for sure. There is a crankcase breather on the right hand side of the engine just ahead of the fuse block. Round with a wing nut on top so you can clean the screen inside.
Mine takes a hair over 5qts. with a filter change.
Your compression readings seem weird. The glow plugs go into a pre-chamber in the head so if there is a restriction between the pre and main chambers it could explain the readings you got.
Carbon buildup in the heads or pre-chambers could explain your power issues too.
When the engine bogs down under power does it throw smoke out the exhaust? If so, what color?
There are a couple of manuals posted on my website here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
A quick glance through does not show the engine valve specs but I know I have them somewhere. I will keep looking and post when I find them.
As a side note, the operation manual has a section on the power steering gear on page 37.
Yeah, I could check the diode bias with a multi meter but they are so small it is easier to just flip them around than try to hold two probes in the right place while trying to hang on to that little socket.
With 50/50 odds, I only had to flip about 75% of them.
Hopefully I won’t have to replace them again, but I have plenty of spares now.
I also modified the cluster mounts so I don’t have to reach around the fuel tank to get the cluster out. I still have to make some little clamping brackets but that should be easy enough to do once I get the proper aluminum bar stock.
The PTO runs through the tractor below the hydraulic tank and would not contribute to hydraulic temps.
When there is no hydraulics in use the pump is working against the pressure relief valve. The internal friction caused by squeezing and moving the fluid is what causes it’s temperature to rise. IN the winter as the fluid heats up I cycle all the hydraulics to get the warm fluid to warm up the rest of the system. At rest the fluid just circulates through the tank and back to the pump. It takes a long time to warm up the cast iron tank and 3 point cylinder.
It is possible that whatever is causing the fluid to flow through the steering gear when it is not supposed to is temperature related. As the gear warms up a passageway may be opening up or a seal may start leaking.
A higher viscosity fluid may help with the issue but is likely to only mask the problem and not really fix it.
It will be interesting to see what temps you observe at startup and after an hour or so of operation.
As a reference point my loader (ZL20) says it will lift 875 pounds to full height. It should raise in 6.5 seconds and lower in 5.0 seconds. It is not specified but I would assume that the times are for a no load condition and at operating temps and probably at full or nearly full throttle. It might be interesting for you to check the times both cold and hot to see how it relates.
The hydraulic tank on the 284 is the small tank just under the seat. The 3 point lift piston is inside that tank. It sits above the rear differential and does not have a common sump with the transmission/drive system. The tranny/diff uses 80W-90 and the hydraulics uses hydraulic fluid. The tank was sized to run the 3 point and the steering. Adding a loader to it just about maxes it out capacity wise because it only holds about 2.5 Gal. Running the PTO will have no effect on the hydraulics.
If the fluid level gets too low it might cause overheating. My experience with the 284 is it is impossible to get the fluid to overheat. In fact, I have the opposite problem, especially in the winter at sub-zero temps. The cast iron in the tank, all the hoses and lines and loader cylinders act like big radiators and dissipate heat so fast that the fluid remains stiff even when working the tractor hard.
Think of it this way. The only energy being put into the hydraulic fluid is done by the pump and any friction it may encounter in the hoses/lines. Everything else extracts energy from the fluid, either by doing work or by radiating heat. That poor little pump has a hard time imparting that much energy into the system. Somewhere there is a formula for calculating all this. Basically you figure out the heat input, minus the work output and what is left over is residual heat that must be extracted by the tank/lines/cylinders. If they can’t keep up the remaining heat (usually expressed in Watts or BTU’s) determines the size of cooler you need. There are more details than just the basics listed here.
If your hydraulics are overheating, you could feel it by touching the tank after an hour or so of operation.
If you aren’t getting proper pressure your loader would be week and your steering would be stiff, not moving around on it’s own.
Back to your steering issue: If you use the loader and lift the front wheels off of the ground with the engine running they should not turn on their own. If they do there is something wrong. I never did buy that it was the cylinder leaking and replacing the cylinder and still having the problem proves that out.
Fluid temperature (viscosity) might effect how much of the problem is displayed but I doubt it is the problem in itself.
Personally, I like to take things apart to see how they work. I don’t know how the steering gear works at controlling the fluid in and out of the cylinder. I would likely resign myself to the fact that I need a new gear. I might look for a used one to try if that is even possible. Some of the dealers may have a scraped tractor that they are parting out or someone else may know of a source of used parts. In any case, I would take is as an opportunity to take the existing one apart to see what makes it tick. I might get lucky and see something obvious like a blown seal or gasket or severe wear. There probably aren’t parts available and I suspect that once I got it apart there would be no hope of putting it back together in working condition. But I would take a look knowing that I am probably going to have to buy a new one.
That reminds me I have a refigerator compressor that quit after 33 years. Made a terrible noise before it died. I’m going to cut it open just to see what went wrong. I suspect either a bearing or a motor mount broke.
I don’t know exactly what is wrong with your steering, but all the testing and replaced parts points to the steering gear as the culprit.
