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I suspect the 3 Point mower has taken over do to the “universal” fit. Smaller compact tractors from the big manufacturers all have proprietary belly mowers with unique attachments and PTO setups.
I don’t believe I have ever seen a belly mower on a Jinma or clone.
The fuel cut off lever should be full forward to be in “Run”.
The throttle linkage is at idle when full forward. See Picture.
If your throttle linkage is not loose and you had a run away, I suspect there is an issue with the governor. I would recommend draining and replacing the oil as the first easy step. Instructions are on page 40 of this document:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/jinma_manual.pdf
Thanks Bob,
Any word on why the site was down?
You can get me at Stuart@harnerfarm.net in case it goes down again.
What tractor do you have?
It would appear that there is a breather on the end of that steel line. It also appears that the steel line is a return to the tank. The question is what tank?
I would highly suspect a blown seal on the backhoe pump as the backhoe has a separate hydraulic system and that fluid should never be introduced to the tractor side of things.
Hmm. I would have to see specs and instructions to give sound electronics advice.
If your new gauge requires more resistance than provided by the factory sending unit, it should be a simple task to add the appropriate sized resistor in the line from the gauge to the sender.
Can you provide a schematic or instructions for the new gauge?
I took mine apart after replacing it just to see what was wrong. It is a simple wire wound resistor with contacts on either side. The contacts were worn to the point they were intermittent at best and completely open most of the time. This gave me a false reading of full.
Yes, you can test the sender by putting an ohm meter (DMM or Digital Mulit-meter set to read ohms) across the terminals of the sender and moving the float arm up and down. You should see a higher value with the arm up and a steady reduction in the reading as you slowly move the float to the down position.
For basic troubleshooting the actual numbers are not as important as seeing the value change as you move the float from top to bottom.
What symptoms were you seeing that lead you to ask about the Ohms values in the first place?
The only info I have is for a 2006 284. 85 Ohms full (up) and 10 ohms empty (down). If you have the same instrument in the dash it is likely these values will be the same for the 354.
An open circuit between the instrument and ground (through the sender) will cause the gauge to show full. A short circuit will show empty.
With the hot wire removed from the sender you should see about 5 volts and a full reading on the gauge. Ground that wire and it should go to empty.
Hopefully someone else will have exact numbers for your tractor, but at least this might be a starting point.
Are these valves with levers screwed onto the tubes? If so you could probably just remove them and put caps on the tubes. If you bought your tractor used it is possible that the valves were put on to replace the quick connectors. If they are common hardware store water valves they can’t take the pressure of the hydraulic system.
My Jinma 284 had quick connectors on the ends of the tubes. If they are the same as the quick connects for the FEL they are just 1/2″ pipe thread.
If your tractor is like mine the pressure relief is in the proportioning valve near the bottom of the steering column.
If possible please post a photo of these valves and point out where the fluid is leaking. That will allow us to better understand what is going on and make suggestions from there.
Didn’t Northern Tools sell these originally? If so they can probably get you a manual.
Which engine can only be answered by looking at the tag on the engine. Post a picture and we can figure that out.
Oil filter is dependent on which engine. Yes, more than likely there is a domestic equivalent. I use Fram 3600 on my Jinma 284 with a Y385 engine (2006). Buy them at Walmart.
Diesel engines make the oil look black in just a few hours of use. This is normal and can not be used as a “need to change” indicator. Hours and type of use are the easiest methods. An oil analysis is the only true way to know when your oil is used up. Unfortunately they cost about the same as an oil change so….
I have posted the owners manual and other stuff for my tractor here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
If nothing else it will give you a starting point.
I’ve heard that this is a secret society and you needed a sponsor and know the secret handshake before being admitted.
Meetings are held behind hidden tool cabinet doors that are activated by retinal scanners.
Passwords and symbols are mentioned to the UN-initiated is such ways as the unwary never catch on to what is being presented.
To protect the members, no one person can know the names of more than two others in case someone is captured and forced to talk tracks.
Shhh!
