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I think your best bet is to drain off a bit of oil and look at it, 90 weight gear oil smells and looks different than hydro oil and then there is the weight difference 90 vs. 10 wt. If you need gear oil I think that gl-4 is a good choice because it is yellow metal safe. I think I am safe in saying that if you have a common sump tractor aw- 32 or aw- 46 should be safe to use, that means your trans, rear end, power steering (if you have it) and hydro system all use the same oil. The front axle should be 90 wt. engine 15-40, but this is a guess.
It might be damaged they are supposed to be set as to turn the sensor in till it touches the flywheel (engine not running) and back it out about 1 turn.
you know if you can find a single wire alt. from a boat as inboard or a I/o they are sealed as explosion proof as they work in bilges that have a potential of gas vapors. they wont put out 70 amps but I am thinking 40 amps
yes I remember those and there was not much that bracket wise you needed to add. But with the delco you need to add a I think # 6 wire to the batt. and I can not remember what they did with the sense wire. I did a 8n ford and there we added a strap from a 2 prong plug to a post which makes it charge all the time that away rpm to get the alt. to kick in are not required. That tractor is next neighbor over I can go look at it if this is the way you want to go.
well I would first look at the oil to see if it is contaminated, but you need to determine that the pump is not dead heading, there has been many problems with the factory quick disconnects and the loader joysticks, it would not hurt to have a pressure gauge mounted somewhere until the problem is corrected. I do not have a jimma so someone who has one can better tell you where it is easiest to access a point in the system.
this is so weird like with load you have a shaft that gets torqued and flexes and binds, I am going to be quite interested on what finally shows up as the problem. Have you tried jacking it up and letting it run in gear using a mechanics stethoscope ? Talk about a grasp at straws.
I think the guys at affordable tractor 1 979 865 4002 have a pretty good supply of foton parts.
I think there is something about gear ratios or tire sizes being wrong ,the reason I say that is if in 2 wheel drive everything is turning just not connected under power, when 4 wheel is engaged then you have 2 things turning on the same ground speed but powered at different speeds , so it binds .everything must match within factory plus and minus windows. I have heard of new back tires and bald fronts giving issues. I guess you could mark the rear and front tires roll the tractor one revolution one the rear and the front should turn more than once but the marks should be in the same place once the one turn has been made. well I think anyway.
ok I got a verification on went wrong with his tractor it was the spindle bearings which fell apart and wiped out the gears. I do not believe that is your problem. But what you are saying that with the tractor in 2 wheel drive the tractor operates normally. Only when in 4 wheel you feel the problem. Is this correct?
