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well I do not know what engine you have but about 2500 is what they are governed to run at max. These engines run well at 1800 to 2000.
chances it is ok but when you have a minute use a straight edge on the block. I have seen raised places around the bolt holes. Was this engine overheated?
I have a 2005 le 204a lenar (dong feng). I pulled out just the pto shaft to have it drilled for a over run clutch ( it just has a single stage clutch) . It came straight out , I remember filing down sharp edges so a new seal would slide in easier without pinching. I do not know anything other than that, I wish I could help you more.
with that said it might be possible to create linkage or a cable to make it work. I use mine to top off the oil filter after a oil change, I find that it does not do much good as a start assist in cold weather , but to each his own ideas.
yea I know but look at it this way a retorque now and the bonus of setting your valves easily or possibly a head gasket replacement later with all the water issues that go along with it. yea that should do it. Is it done yet?
ok I have heard of tractors that had conflicts in making linkages line up and work and not hooking them up. But I am pretty sure about what you are writing about as being the compression release. I suppose that once you get the valve cover off you could try to figure a way to do away with it and plug up the hole, It would make access easier in the future. Is there a bolt on the lever that you could remove then slide the valve cover to the rear over the valve release rod , it has been to long I can not remember exactly.
I assume that what you are writing about is the compression release, some tractors this is a tricky thing to remove and restore to where it needs to be. Before you start to remove it look over it closely , If I remember right the is a cotter pin that needs to be removed on a lever on the rear of the valve cover which separates the linkage from the compression releases rod that compresses the exhaust valves. I have only done this once and it has been a few years back so I hope I go it right.
I have a 20 hp dong feng and a 50 hp foton each has 3 drain points to get all the oil out of the front axle and spindle housings ,but if your oil is not contaminated I would just get out most of it and refill . Do you have a oil level weep hole? If not I was told if there is a plug on the top of the axle housing look in there and fill till the axle itself is covered , and call it good. Back to the oil I said contaminated that would include excess metal shavings. If you are unsure about the oil needed use gl-4 rated gear oil it is safe for brass and copper bushings. Some gl-5 is made with a formula which uses chlorine and it eats yellow metals.
