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I assume that you have asked about when hour wise maint. is to be preformed as a schedule? after the first maint. at 25 to 50 hrs. of clock time I try to do every 200 after unless something needs to be adressed before time. as a coolant leak and I have to drain the system then do it early just write it down so maybe it can be skipped on the next service. If this is not what you are asking please give more detail as to what your question is.
I have seen 3 different references to head torque specs for the ty395e engine 67-81 ft(to me to low) lbs and 89-100 ft lbs(seems reasonable) and 110-125 ft lbs(to high) so I suggest to call a parts dealer here in the states and ask what they use, and use your best judgement.
I agree, if you have access to a diesel engine compression tester and or a leak down tester to test the cylinders that should give you a idea of the cylinders involved. If you are not aware these engines require a second head torquing after 10 or so hrs of running time. and to have a machine shop look at the head for flatness is a good idea. If that is not possible a machinist grade straight edge can give you a idea if you are ok.
is the tube that holds the driveshaft straight? At one time I high centered the tractor and bent mine up pretty bad and I believe if left alone would have caused issues with the coupler and said balls.
you can not really go by outside dimensions except for the rod, all the seals will most likely be metric if you are having it repaired. you have the needed dimensions just to buy new cylinders ,except the hole size on each end and make sure the hoses and the cylinder threads are the same.
I have no knowledge of that engine, but it has to be timed so the engine and pump are on the same page so to speak, I do know that. It is just how to do it without pulling the front cover of the engine off to see the timing marks on the crank, cam, and pump. Some engines use a pin that is installed to keep everything in one place during the pump change out. keep us posted as to what you find out.
yes it does it is 20 weight, I think it is a little light for gears in hot climates but winter coming up so you should be ok for awhile.
no universal tractor fluid is its own thing, it is designed to be able to operate in hydro and geared appilactions and in the summer it is fine, but in the winter in the hydro systems it is to thick , mostly in power steering systems. most call it just UTF and forget I mentioned anything about 140 wt. oil just do not use it. Unless you have a severely leaking gear box , as a temp. fix only till repair is done.
front end 4 wheel drive gears and geared transmissions 75/90 or simular i would not use 140 wt . oil. , If it has a hydro pump here in southern Tn. I use aw -46 in lift systems and if has seperate power steering resivour I use aw-32 . I have found that universal tractor fluid here is to heavy in winter. just based on my uses. 15/40 in all my diesel engines.
well I have a 2005 dong feng 204a ,it is close to what you have but I do not think it will exactly cross over. I believe that the voltage reg. has three wires. I did replace it several years ago as the orginal was overcharging, new one has a red light on it that indicates it is powered, why I have no clue, but it works well enough.
