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Another question.
Does the output from your pump go directly to the steering sector at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft?
On my 284 there is a priority valve that is supposed to give the steering system priority over any other hydraulic use. If you have a priority valve and it is stuck or has failed it could be causing you problems.
Does your tractor have rear hydraulic ports? If so you could put a coupler in it and start the tractor to see if there is any oil flow there.
As mentioned before, several things could be causing your symptoms.
May i suggest loosening the output fitting on the pump enough that it starts to drip. Then start the engine and observe if there is more flow with the engine running. There should be.
If not, then the pump may not be turning or may be defective. Just because it is new doesn’t mean it works. Then work your way back to the sump. Take the suction line loose from the pump. If the pump is lower than the fluid level it should free flow at least a little fluid.
What viscosity of fluid did you use and what is the temperature there?
In cold weather it takes my Jinma 284 quite a while to warm up enough to lift the 3 point.
Let us know if you have fluid flow at the suction and pressure fittings at the pump.
True on the moisture in compressed air. Not as much of an issue this time of year depending on where you live I guess. That is why a shot of acetone or alcohol works great. Even if it picks up a few bits of water it will hold it when mixed with fuel.
Learned this trick in chemistry class after we scrubbed the glassware clean we did a final rinse with distilled water then a small shot of acetone swish and dump, water was gone and no contamination from wiping with a cloth or paper towel.
These bugs sound nasty enough that I might consider replacing all the hoses just for good measure. Hard lines are a little different. Remove and scrub with a really small bottle brush or really long pipe cleaner? What kills the bugs, bleach, acid, alkaline solution? Need something that won’t harm the pipes and hoses.
All this reminds me it is time to go to town and get a load of winter mix for the tractor…
Good advice from Bob. I think it is only a 4 gallon tank held down with two straps. You will probably have to at least loosen the instrument portion of the hood to get it out. Once out you can pressure wash it or rinse it out to get the bulk of the crud out.
I would then get a length of small chain at least a couple of feet long and put in the tank. Then block off the openings and fill half way with water and some Dawn dish soap. Cap it off and shake, rattle, and roll your way to cleanliness. You may have to do that a few times. Once it appears clean inside, rinse thoroughly with clean hot water.
Use compressed air to blast out as much water as possible then you can pour in some acetone and “swish and spit” a few times to get rid of any left over water. Pure alcohol will do the same as it will absorb water up to about 10%. Then some more compressed air sh0uld do the trick. (don’t forget to recover the chain).
Put back in tractor and ready to go.
Since I have not had the pleasure of diesel bugs, Bob do you have to do anything to clean the inside of the hoses and pipes? New filters all around for sure!
Will the bugs pass through a filter?
Factory tach or after market?
There are optical tachometers available. You could put something shiny on the fan blade and register off of that. You have to make sure the crankshaft and fan pulleys were the same size or do some math.
You might also be able to use an A/C powered florescent light in a dark location to see if you can get the strobe effect going on the fan. Put a mark on one of the blades (or crankshaft pulley) and adjust the throttle until the mark appears to stand still. The RPM will be a multiple of the 60Hz A/C current so it should strobe still at 600 RPM and at other multiples too.
At least I think the math is right, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
That should be sufficient. When really cold (-20 or more) my glow plugs will pull close to 30 amps but that quickly reduces as they heat up. The 12ga wire can handle that much load for a short time but the fuse won’t so if you start popping fuses you will know for sure.
From the factory the glow plug current ran through the ammeter and the key switch. When I installed a solenoid for the glow plugs I wired it so the key switch only carried the current for the solenoid but pulled the glow plug current from the ammeter side so I could still monitor the draw. Done this way, if a glow plug burns out you will be able to see it in the reduced current.
I used either 12ga or 10ga wire, don’t remember which. It was a lot bigger than the original that is for sure!
Winter before last the 3rd glow plug died so when I replaced them all at the same time I went ahead and wired in a solenoid. It was really easy to do. I tapped the power off of the ammeter and used that to feed the glow plugs through the solenoid using an adequate sized wire instead of that skinny stuff from the factory. That way I could see the power draw on the meter and that will tell me if the plugs are working or not. The original glow plug output from the switch was routed to the “trigger” side of the solenoid. This way the key and ammeter still work as originally designed but the high current draw avoids the key switch. This is the original key switch on my 2007 tractor and it has had hard glow plug use for 10 years before I got around to this upgrade.
From an old list it would appear that two different oil filters were used.
20mm JXD706P translates to NAPA 1626 or Fram PH3935 or WIX51381
3/4″ JXD707P crosses to NAPA 1516 or Fram 3600 (Mine uses this)
Fuel filter CXD706 (marked CX0706 on filter) crosses to NAPA 3195 or Fram P6503
Air filter 385T-1-1500 is NAPA FIL2276 or WIX42276 or Donaldson P181050 (Mine uses this)
Hope this helps
Dang it, just barely too big. I posted it on my web site here:
http://harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
