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Not positive about your tractor but if I remember right, the 3 point piston pushes on an actuator rod that connects to the rocker arm that lifts the hitch. The cylinder can only push “up” on the hitch and relies on the weight of the hitch to push it back “down”. It is a one way cylinder and that is the reason there is no down pressure available for the hitch. Since the actuator only rests on the piston you can pick up the hitch (and rocker arm and attached internal actuator rod) without the cylinder actually moving. That would explain the low resistance feel you had.
The adjuster knob is used to control how fast the fluid moves out of cylinder when you put the control valve in the lower position. Basically just a needle valve that you can open to allow the cylinder to drain faster or slower. It should have no effect on how fast the hitch goes up.
Since the problem started when the loader was put on and you have quick connects, take the loader out of the circuit and try the 3 point to see if it goes up. If not, the loader probably has nothing to do with it.
Depends are you selling or buying? Also where are you located? How old is it? Front end loader?
After checking all of the electrical connections, try getting the engine to turn, at least a little. Pry bar on the front crank pulley or put it in gear and rock the rear wheel with a board or something. It is possible that the bendix is just jammed against the flywheel and rotating the crankshaft a little will free it. It is also possible that the starter armature is just sitting in a “dead” spot that it can’t turn itself out of.
The next step is to pull the starter. Fortunately it is easy to do. Then some bench testing will show you what is wrong if indeed it is the starter.
Have you done a load test on the battery? If you don’t have a load tester put a voltmeter on it and make sure it has at least 12.5 volts with everything turned off. Then watch the voltage while you turn the key to attempt a start. If it drops below 10 volts, the battery may be the culprit.
Have you tried a jump start?
That is fantastic! A simple fix that only costs a little time is the best fix.
Thank you for posting the solution. You may never know how many others it will help.
:yahoo:
Looking back at the original post, have you tried looking at the online parts catalogs of a Jinma dealer to see if you can find the exhaust part that looks like yours? If you are sure that it came from a different model Jinma once you find something that looks right, one of the dealer/sponsors of this list may be able to get actual dimensions for you. If you can take a picture of the part you are looking for and post it that should help a lot.
Agreed. I wasn’t thinking of bending the schedule 40 stuff but rather trying to find a pre-made elbow or two that could be welded together to get the needed configuration, then weld the flanges to that.
Luckily around here there are a few custom machine/welding shops that carry a lot of different steel products and are very good at “in the field” engineering. If we think up something they don’t have supplies on hand for, they can usually get them in a day or two.
EMT can be problematic to weld in the smaller configurations. Never having messed with anything larger than about 1″, I am guessing that the wall thickness increases with the diameter so that something in the 2″ range may be quite easy to weld. Just beware of ventilation when welding galvanized items.
I am sure something can be fabricated once the right parts are located. I always enjoy these kinds of projects if I’m not under time pressures.
Just tossing out some ideas.
Standard exhaust pipe is fairly thin so that it can be easily bent to any shape needed. That leads to a shorter life span. Perhaps a heavier walled pipe would be appropriate in this application. Does it have to support the muffler without any other brackets? This piece still has a flange on each end? Post a picture of the current setup if available.
Maybe you could use standard plumbing pipe fittings welded into the shape you need and with the flanges welded onto each end. The flanges themselves should be fairly straight forward to manufacture out of plate steel. Schedule 40 pipe fittings might be overkill but they should last forever. 🙂
Steel pipe that is thicker walled than exhaust tube but thinner than schedule 40 stuff should be able to be bent into shape, but if not, it can be cut and welded at the corners. More tedious to make but more flexible in design.
Speaking of flexible, a lot of modern vehicles use a braided flex pipe from the header to the main exhaust pipe or sometimes all the way to the catalytic converter. It might take a lot of searching, but there might be something out there that would work for you. The problem would then become how to support the muffler with some kind of bracket.
Good info. By swapping the hoses and having the problem move to the tilt cylinders, you have eliminated the hoses and the cylinders. This also vindicates the quick couplers, although I would have thought that if they were the problem, all cylinders in the loader would be having the same problem at the same time.
As for what is wrong in the control valve, I suspect you will have to open it up to see. I don’t know about your valve, but the factory one on my 284 was less than desirable and I opted to replace it with the one from Ranch Hand Supply. This allowed me to get a float position and to add future functions using a power beyond port. The increased sensitivity and fine control over loader movements was well worth the investment.
You might consider going this route before tearing into your existing valve. I never opened up my old one as it did function and it now sits in the shop as a backup guarantee that nothing will ever happen to my good valve. Just a talisman to ward off the “Murphy” evil spirit. 😉
Maybe someone who has taken one of these valves apart will be able to help with that.
Doesn’t sound like a pump or flow problem if the other parts are working normally.
Does it sound like the relief valve is opening? The same sound as it makes when the cylinder hits the end of its travel?
Since it takes more force to lift the loader than to roll the bucket do you know if the bucket or 3 point still have normal power? Will the FEL lift the front of the tractor off the ground?
If so, I would suspect a plugged control valve or perhaps a hose that is collapsed internally. Rare, but it can happen.
You could swap the lift cylinder hoses at the valve and maybe figure out if the problem follows the lift or lower side of the circuit. IF that doesn’t tell you anything, you could swap the bucket and lift cylinder hoses at the valve. If the problem stays with the lift cylinders, it would indicate the hose/cylinder and vindicate the valve. However if the bucket starts rolling slowly, it would indicate the valve has a problem.
Let us know what you find.
And there is your answer. It is worth $200 not $2000 the owner is asking.
Another question would be could it be parted out for a different value?
If I were the owner looking to sell and it was worth $200 at the junk yard I would be happy to have someone come take it off my hands for the same or a little more. ($250).
Next question: would the old tractor with a new engine be worth $7750? Probably not.
However, if your situation allows, IF you can get it for say $250 and can store it, then you can keep an eye out for a tractor that is broken but has a good engine…..
