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I have the Y385 engine.
Here is a picture of the decompression lever and one of where it goes towards the engine. Your may have been removed at some point and all you need is the parts. Speaking of parts, did you find a parts manual?
I like the decompression feature for two reasons. If it has been more than a week since the tractor was used, I like to hold the fuel cutoff and the decompression at the same time and spin the engine until I get oil pressure built up and then for another 5 to 10 seconds. This acts as a pre-oil to minimize wear at startup. Second, for really cold starts or weak battery conditions. If you use the decompression for the first couple of revolutions when you hit the starter it lets the crankshaft and flywheel get up to speed easier. Then when you drop the lever that inertia helps the starter motor against the compression stroke.
I can take better pictures of it and scan the parts page if you would like.
I am a little surprised you don’t have a decompression lever. Look on the back of the rocker cover to see if you have the mechanism circled in yellow.
My 2007 (built in 2006) has the creeper (or crawler) hi/lo that yours does not. That may be a difference between the models or it may have been an option that was not built into your tractor. Not all farm tractors have transfer or hi/lo speed selectors. Some do, some don’t. My 284 has 12 forward and 4 reverse speeds using the two transfer cases in various combinations. However you have the “shuttle shift” and I don’t. For doing loader work it is a great benefit because you can flip back and forth without shifting the transmission. I wish my 284 had that feature when moving snow.
As for shifting gears. Most tractors with manual transmissions don’t have a synchronous gear set, so you don’t up-shift on the move. You come to a compete stop before shifting to avoid grinding the gears.
Decompression levers are nice to have but not a complete necessity. Do you have the two or three cylinder engine?
Just a few ideas of where to start.
How is the filter in the tank?
If you take the suction hose off at the pump will oil flow out of the hose?
If you take the pressure hose off at the pump, will oil flow out on it’s own? How about with the engine running and the PTO engaged?
Are you sure the tang on the pump is connecting with the slot in the tractor?
Have you checked the shaft in the tractor to make sure it is turning with the PTO engaged and the engine running?
Also, with the PTO engaged and the engine turned off, you should not be able to turn the end of the shaft that engages the tang on the pump. If you can, something in the tractor is broke.
Nope, already checked that. No fluid came out.
The feel on the pedal is more like the pressure plates are not rotating smoothly. I suspect rust or other corrosion on the plates or balls. Another possibility is a broken pressure plate spring.
I won’t know until I get it apart.
Diesel getting into the governor portion of the injector pump does not necessarily mean the injector pump is bad.
When this happened to me I determined that the fuel was coming from the lift pump actuator pin seal. I replaced the seal and it only lasted a few hours. I removed the lift pump and made a cover plate for the hole. There was an electric pulse pump sitting on my shelf so I plumbed that in and connected it to the fuse block on a circuit that is hot only with the key on.
Works fine and there has been no fuel in the governor section since then. $40 for a lift pump vs. $500+ for an injection pump.
Ah Ha!
This is pretty much what I had pictured in my mind based on the parts book drawings. This helps clear it up.
Based on the feel at the pedals I suspect there is rust/corrosion in the area where the balls contact the plates. Possibly a broken spring or two.
I am guessing there is no lube on any of the pivot points or the balls/ramps. I am guessing that some kind of lube would be a good idea for sliding metal parts.
What do you think would be best, a light coat of wheel bearing grease or a white grease like lubriplate?
Did you have to take the whole housing off to get these out or will they come out the end plate?
Thanks!
without knowing how you are posting replies, I can’t give you detailed instructions.
However, if you are using a PC and logging on to the web site, then you will be typing a reply in a box near the bottom of the page that this thread is on. Below the box will be the emoji’s, a box to check if you want to be Notified of replies via email and a warning about Maximum file size allowed is 1000 KB.
Below that is
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You click on the browse button then you navigate the files of your computer to find the picture you want to attach and click on that. It will take a minute or two to upload, then your picture will appear on the forum with your message once you click the Submit button.
You have to be sure that your photo is less than 1 MB in size. There are many ways to reduce the size of a photo depending on what operating system you have and what software you may have on your PC.
Hope this helps.
According to my manual there were drum brakes like you describe but the ones on my tractor are disc brakes. A different configuration. I have never seen anything quite like this before and have only the images in the manual to go by. I won’t know for sure about the expander ball part of it until I get it apart. Drum brakes I understand, disc brakes on vehicles I understand, these, not so much….
