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The hydraulics uses plain hydraulic fluid, not Trans-Hydraulic
The transmission and rear differential use 80W-90 gear oil, not Trans-Hydraulic
Trans-Hydraulic is for use in drive systems that share fluid with the hydraulic system. These transmissions are usually hydrostatic in nature (no clutch or manual shifting). While Trans-Hydraulic might work it is not the best choice and it cost more than necessary for your tractor. I would not use it unless your tractor manual specifically calls for it. Don’t go by the hype on the label of the bucket in the store.
When you fill the transmission it will get to a point where the oil will flow into the rear diff before the entire system gets “full”. The reason there is a separate drain plug for the rear diff is that it holds fluid that is lower than the flow through point and you can’t get it all out by just draining the transmission.
The hydraulic tank only holds a couple of gallons after the cylinders and hoses are filled. The trans and diff hold a little more than 5 gallons….I think. I don’t remember for sure and I run mine a little “over full” according to the dipstick. This raises the level so that that upper shafts get more oil and it quiets the gears considerably.
This is based on some advice I got when the tractor was new and in 17 years I have never had an issue with it. I do periodically drain a little fluid from the bottom of each sump and the front axles just to make sure any water gets removed. Then top off if needed.
I don’t believe you can go by wire color. Jinma used little plastic number tags to identify wires.
Also, they used a couple of different voltage regulators over the years. Some had screw terminals and some had spade terminals that just push into the connector next to the fuse block. Of these there were at least two designs, one had a small LED light on it. I don’t know for sure but is sticks in my mind that these were not interchangeable.
For the style with the spade terminals the weakest part of the it was the block and the OEM wire terminals are of very poor quality. No clamping ability and they come loose a lot. You can bend them tighter once or twice, then they break. That mounting location is also a really poor spot because is shakes wildly.
I added an upper brace to the fuse block mount but that did not entirely solve the problem. When the second regulator died after only a few hour of use I looked for alternatives. At that time regulators were $25 and shipping half that. I haven’t priced them lately.
I wound up replacing the alternator with a re-man Delco for about the price of two regulators. The Delco has an internal regulator. All I had to do is flip one of the mounting brackets end for end.
There are some down sides to this approach but over all I am very happy with it.
Pros:
Much higher output alternator
Availability of both reman units and parts. There are millions of them out there…
Lower price
Cons:
The one I used is an open fan design which means I have to be sure and keep the dust blown out of it. Not a big deal for me but it is in some applications. In that case you need to upgrade to a totally enclosed design which will cost more.
I had to do some re-wiring of the tractor. The amp meter still functions properly but the “idot light” on the dash does not. It is on all the time. I could probably fix that with some diodes but I have just learned to ignore it. You can never trust a light anyway.
Here is a schematic that I found. It shows the wire numbers but does not show where they connect to the regulator. Hopefully this will help. It is labled 2005 and matched my tractor that was made in late 2006. As far as I know there were no records kept as to when design changes were implemented.
In order to pin point a leak you have to first get the area clean and dry. A pressure washer is good for this but if you don’t have one some spray foam engine cleaner and a garden hose will work. For smaller areas some mineral spirits on a rag will work too. Brake cleaner will work but it expensive and will take off the paint.
Once clean and dry you can operate the tractor and check the area every few minutes to see if you can find the leak. As a last resort you can get a fluorescent additive for the hydraulic fluid and then use a black light (UV) to see the trace.
You are probably correct about it leaking at the 3 point rocker shafts. There are seals in there but they are not very tight. The rocker shaft goes through the upper portion of the hydraulic tank and if you overfill the tank it will leak out at the rocker shaft.
Even a tank with the fluid at the proper level can flood that shaft if you are working with the front of the tractor higher than the back. I have this issue every winter when I am pushing snow piles up high.
The other thing that can cause the tank to “overfill” is if you have air getting into the hydraulic fluid. It will foam up and push out of the vent tube. To check this run your tractor for a while and then pull the fill plug and look inside with a flashlight.
These tractors are dead simple in design and easy to work on if you have a good parts diagram to follow. Some of the factory diagrams take some close study to understand how everything fits together.
There are several documents you can download on my website under the Jinma link on the home page. http://www.harnerfarm.net
Pictures are always helpful even for your own records for future use.
I had a huge leak show up in the middle of moving snow last winter. After 14 years a bolt on the 3 point control valve decided to come loose and it blew the gasket out. I would suggest taking some wrenches and make sure all the bolts in the area are good and snug. It is always a good idea to go over these tractors every now and again and check all the bolts that you can get to with a wrench. The Chinese lock washers are not the best and they do work loose. Wheels especially but loader frames are a close second.
Take a look at the files on my web page here:
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
The wiring for you dozer should be similar to the 284 tractor wiring. Also the file for the Ford switch shows the pin out of the switches.
Feel free to download and print out the files. I didn’t make them but posted for anyone who needs them.
If you have a schematic and either a multi-meter or a battery and a test light it should be easy enough to test the switch either in the machine or on the bench.
It is also possible without a schematic but is a little more work.
Without knowing your electrical skill level it is hard to know how basic of a description you need.
First advice is to take a picture of the wires before you disconnect them. IF that is not possible, be sure and label them well so you can get them back where they belong.
A lot of people have upgraded to a Ford key switch which has better contacts and can take the load of the glow plugs better than the factory switch.
All of the wiring on these machines is barely adequate to function properly when new. As they age most of the spade connectors corrode and become loose. Both the crimp on the wire and the crimp that holds the female end onto the spade. This causes intermittent connectivity that manifests itself as all kinds of different issues.
If you follow the power from the battery to the switch it probably goes from the battery to a terminal on the starter, then to the amp meter then to the switch. Then the switch contacts will in turn energize the run, start and glow plug circuits. Fortunately these are done only one at a time so checking for continuity is straight forward.
You probably have a switch with the following positions from left to right.
Start – Off – Run – Start – Heat (glow plugs)
The start and heat positions are spring loaded and will not stay in those positions unless you hold it.
The run sends power out to the fuse box to power all the other accessories.
Either start will send power to the starter solenoid, probably through the same wire spliced together close to the switch.
Heat will go to the glow plug bus bar through the fuse in the fuse box.
What symptom(s) are you having that cause you to suspect the key switch is the issue?
Hope this helps and ask any questions you still have. Post pictures if you can.
I used the same thing on my tractor. Worked pretty good. Way better then buying a whole new lens assembly, even if they were available….
Also found out that you can use a number 880 Basic fog light bulb instead of the goofy right angle bulbs that come in the tractor. Available at any auto parts store and way cheaper too.
I found some LED replacements but waiting for the current ones to burn out (shouldn’t be long) before replacing them.
Did you find a part number for it or is it not serviced separately?
If you have a part number, web searches should turn up something.
If it is not serviced separately you may have to buy a whole pump to get it.
However, you could:
Take it apart to see if it something that can be repaired.
Check with a local diesel shop that does pump rebuilds. They sometimes have access to repair parts that are not available to the general public. They also may have that part from a scraped pump or be able to find one that will work.
Look for a used pump such on on eBay. You may be able to find one for sale as a parts pump.
Sounds like you have a good repair going.
Wheel alignment on tractors is not all that critical compared to a highway vehicle. I once bent the tie rod so badly that it pushed the toe out so badly that it was visible from the tractor seat. Still drove fine. Went back to shop, removed tie rod and straightened it in the press then put it all back together. Been fine for several years. I do occasionally wear out the OEM ends. Maybe next time I will just replace the whole setup with something domestic.
FYI: There are lots of apps that let you resize photos on your phone.
These tractors have really simple wiring. The only thing that I can think of that might get a little confusing is the alternator/regulator circuit. Relays can be a little confusing depending on how they are actuated, but they all work the same way.
Do you have a schematic?
Do you know how to test voltage and continuity?
You said you can’t read a schematic but these simple systems are the perfect place to learn. I would suggest doing a web search for “simple dc circuits” or some such. I would bet you will find all kinds of classroom style videos online.
You might also check a local trade school that might have some continuing education classes or adult classes at night. Also, another way to go might be a local high school, if you can find one that still teaches vocational ed classes.
If all else fails, a library should have plenty of good books on automotive wiring or how to read a schematic. Ask at the reference desk, they will help you.
I wouldn’t hesitate to tackle a complete re-wire of a Jinma and have threatened to do my own someday when I have the time. Already bought a new fuse block (not OEM crap) to do it right. My know how in wiring is all self taught. Just think of it as running a garden hose. The positive side of the battery is the faucet and the negative is the drain. The trick is to make all the water go where you want it, when you want it and to make sure it all goes down the drain with no leaks.
It is a little more complex than that, but not much, and it is a good way to get your head wrapped around following the traces in the schematic.
Best of luck and please ask questions. I may have a schematic for your tractor, or one close to it if you don’t have one.
