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Bob,
Your advice was spot on. There is a directory link at the top of the CTOA web page that used to show a list of dealers but the link has been dead for quite some time.
The web site parts listings are somewhat lacking at some of the dealerships. Of course the parts manuals from Jinma have the same problem. Sometimes it takes some digging to get the right parts.
Other sources that I use are http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ and http://www.clearwaterhydraulics.com. They have adapters and fittings that some dealers don’t even understand.
To the original poster, are you looking for something unusual that these dealers don’t have in stock? Anything specific that we can help you find?
Additional info: The two types listed in my parts book are listed as II and III. What was design I?
I found a different diagram here:
Since there is no number designation I am guessing it was the first design. This setup did use a compression spring to apply friction to the hand lever. This was a completely different design than the later two and was apparently for a shuttle shift setup.
There is a small foot throttle return spring on mine (type III) that is not listed in the parts book. It would have no effect on the hand throttle. There is a cushion plate # 184.20.107 that provides friction to the lever.
Guitarman,
Not exactly sure what you are asking. The hand throttle sets the engine speed and pulls the foot throttle along with it. The foot throttle can then be used to increase the engine speed and when released it will return to the speed set by the hand throttle. Please explain what you need accomplished.
Tinbender,
My tractor exactly. The parts book indicates they used two slightly different setups. From what I can tell, one has a full sized foot pedal hinged on the floorboard and the other has a small foot pad attached to a rod that is “free floating”. I have illustrations of both that I can scan and post. Neither have any springs in the system. I have the second type and when the hand throttle got to the point that it would not stay where I put it I tightened the double nut on the bolt that holds the chromed hand throttle to the tractor. This added enough friction to hold it in place.
I can also take pictures if you would like.
Hope this helps.
I doubt you will find metric quick connects, at least in the sizes/styles (there are many different ones) needed. Most likely you will have to go with an adapter of some sort. At one point I found an adapter for the pressure side, but not one for the suction side. I had considered having a custom flange fitting made for where it attaches to the pump, but then couldn’t figure out how to convert back to the filter housing on the tank.
The filter housings are steel, maybe cast iron. Perhaps if I bought a second one for experimentation, I could braze (or weld) an SAE end on it. Could probably make something out of steel for the pump end since it is low pressure, maybe just a gasket for a seal instead of the o-ring used from the factory…..
Hmmm, need some shop time! Been several years since I looked at any of that stuff.
Clearwater Hydraulics in ID is a good place to start. Discount Hydraulics is another good source for odd-ball stuff.
Yes, the hardest part about mounting and un-mounting the backhoe is dealing with the hydraulic pump. Especially when you keep the transmission fluid level above the bottom of the pump cover plate.
I have tried for years to figure out a better solution. Even went so far as to buy a PTO driven pump only to find out it was about a half inch too long to get the backhoe in place.
I think it would make most sense to put a quick connect on the suction line at the tank end. Then on the pressure hose, maybe have a short hose from the pump and a quick connect near the tank area on the other side. (would probably require two new hoses) That way you could mount the pump and hoses before you back up to the backhoe.
If I remember right, the pump only turns when the PTO is engaged but putting the 540/1000 lever in neutral does not stop the pump from turning. Otherwise I would probably leave the pump on the tractor all the time. A way to stop the pump but use the PTO shaft would be the best solution.
Let us know if you figure anything out.
Remember the fit and finish even when new is probably no where near what you would expect. Yet they run and survive. Kind of a testament to modern oils.
How many hours on that engine? It will be interesting to compare the appearance of new bearings with the old. Also once you get new bearings you can check the clearance and get a better idea of how much wear there is. Do you have specs for new and service clearances?
It doesn’t look all that bad in there and the tractor looks to be in good shape too.
Here is a picture of the tank heater I installed. A lot simpler and more effective than a lower radiator hose one.
Water comes out of the bottom of the block at the drain valve, goes through the heater and back into the top of the engine just below the thermostat. Circulation is all inside the block and not wasted in the radiator. This one is 1000 watts and heats a -20°F engine to melting snow in about 30 minutes.
I made some changes after this was taken because the drain valve failed. Turned out the block was standard SAE pipe thread so the fix was easy.
Yeah, those are older pictures from way back when I put it together out of the crate. At 11 years and 600 hours it doesn’t look that nice any more.
Mine is a little loud, but it is a diesel from China! I am still on the original battery although it is getting week this fall and the new one is in the shop. I have never had any battery go 11 years.
Injector pumps have a couple of known issues. The seal between the pump crankcase and the lift pump likes to leak diesel into the crankcase and that dilutes the oil that is shared with the governor. They can also leak fuel from the injector pump pistons. Mine has done both. I just put in new oil when I change the engine oil which is usually somewhere between 50 and 100 hours.
Here is the throttle parts for the 284. Apparently there were two different variations during the production run but the decompression is about the same for each. Your tractor may be exactly the same or something different entirely.
I have the Y385 engine.
Here is a picture of the decompression lever and one of where it goes towards the engine. Your may have been removed at some point and all you need is the parts. Speaking of parts, did you find a parts manual?
I like the decompression feature for two reasons. If it has been more than a week since the tractor was used, I like to hold the fuel cutoff and the decompression at the same time and spin the engine until I get oil pressure built up and then for another 5 to 10 seconds. This acts as a pre-oil to minimize wear at startup. Second, for really cold starts or weak battery conditions. If you use the decompression for the first couple of revolutions when you hit the starter it lets the crankshaft and flywheel get up to speed easier. Then when you drop the lever that inertia helps the starter motor against the compression stroke.
I can take better pictures of it and scan the parts page if you would like.
