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That is the crankcase/governor sump vent/overflow port.
I would start by completely draining and refilling the pump with fresh engine oil and monitor the overflow port to see if it is still overflowing. When the lift pump (the black housing above and to the right of your arrow) it will leak fuel into the pump crankcase and overflow it. It also dilutes the oil and can cause premature wear.
Take a look at this document starting on page 40 for more information on this.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/jinma_manual.pdf
Feel free to download a copy of this manual for your own use.
Please clarify:
By PS fluid do you mean hydraulic fluid?
What do you mean my left hydraulic lifter? Are you referring to a front end loader cylinder?
Or are you talking about the power steering hydraulic cylinder?
Where did you drain the fluid from?
What does the left hydraulic fork attach to?
I’m sure we can figure this out if we can define exactly what you are working on. Can you post a picture?
Jinma parts can be had at Affordable Tractors, Circle G Tractors and Keno Tractors, just to mention a few.
I like to use a length of chain. Easy to remove when done.
Some people use nuts and bolts for the same reason.
My 284 is always slow to get the 3 point moving in the winter even with light weight fluid and a pre-heat.
I cycle the hydraulics to get more action in the sump and warm things up faster. I find that if I raise the loader, then hold up on the 3pt lever as I lower the loader the 3pt will come up. But if you continue to hold the lever up, as soon as the loader hits ground the 3pt drops. Been that way since new.
As it warms up it will slowly start working normally.
Do you have a spin on filter? Suction or pressure side? Or is it just the brass screen on the pickup tube in the sump?
With the engine at high idle can you see any bubbles or foaming in the fluid if you look in the filler hole?
A lot of “old school” types will tell you to pre-fill the filter before screwing it on. I can tell you that at Caterpillar that is a BIG no-no! The reasoning is that you can get unclean fuel into the clean side without passing through the filter. On modern high precision systems it can cause damage. The proper procedure is to clean the area before removal of the old filter. Then clean the area again. Finally remove the protective film from the new filter only immediately prior to screwing it on. Use the primer system to get fuel through the filter. This makes sense to me although in all probability our “less precise” fuel systems are probably fine the other way, but why introduce dirt if you can avoid it.
I’m not sure on your Injector pump but on mine there is a bleed screw that has a ring through it. After a filter change, you loosen that screw and use the hand pump. This will pull fuel from the tank and push it up to the filter, filling it and expelling air towards the injector pump. Once you see a steady stream of fuel (no bubbles of air) you know the filter is full and there is fuel all the way to the IP. It should start and run normally, although there is a small possibility of tiny air bubbles causing to stumble for a few seconds as they get purged out.
It would be a really rare circumstance that you would need to bleed at the injectors, but that is doable it it won’t start.
Don’t forget to close off the bleed screw and tighten down the hand pump!
As a side note, when I assembled my tractor out of the crate I replaced the factory filter with one from NAPA after draining and flushing out the so called fuel that was in the system. (All fluids actually). The tractor is now 15 years old and has 875 hours on it with the filter I installed during assembly. The replacement is on the shelf, clean and dry in the box, just in case I ever need one.
Yes, I did that to my Jinma 284. It had a totally enclosed fan alternator that was fine but it only put out 14 amps and had an external voltage regulator that mounted in the fuse block. Had lots of issues with the wiring in the fuse block and when the regulator failed it was $25 plus shipping which put it at almost $40.
For $60 I bought a reconditioned Delco 12 Si. A little wiring and a slight mod to the mounting bracket and all was well. Plenty of power to run all the extra lights and possibly a small inverter if I need it.
I lost the functionality of the battery light in the dash but at the time the amp meter was working fine. It has since failed due to the needle being warped by sunlight and age. I added an aftermarket volt meter which also aids in troubleshooting although I do miss the amp meter.
Also, the Delco is an open frame alternator which means dirt and water can get inside. If I were doing a lot of mowing or other activity that put lots of plant dust in the air it might be a fire concern. As it is I just blow it out when I am doing other tractor maintenance and it has been fine. I also don’t hose it off directly with the pressure washer because there are bearings and brushes in there.
The alternator you have is connected to the battery at the starter stud. That is the main power point for the whole tractor and is electrically just a remote mounted positive battery terminal.
As usual, check all grounds. Corrosion and paint are your two worst enemies. I would start by checking for continuity from the alternator to ground and then for power at the + connector on the alternator. If that is good, check the wiring from there to the voltage regulator, where ever it may be. Wiring on these tractors is really poor at best. Crimped on ends have a tendency to work loose and break. If all is good you probably have a regulator issue.
There is a way to “full field” the alternator but I don’t remember it off the top of my head. In any case it probably varies a little with the type of regulator you have
Do you have a wiring schematic for your tractor?
Sounds like you are on the right track.
The parts diagrams don’t give much detail for your tractor but for the 200 series it shows a bearing at the bottom of the steering column and a snap ring (circlip by the book) that looks to retain the shaft to the bearing. The bearing is captured between the column housing and the mounting bracket.
To get to the snap ring it looks like you can take out the 4 bolts that hold the housing and the gearbox to the bracket then slide the column up through the hood far enough to get to the snap ring.
When you get it apart please post pictures so we can all see how it works.
Good luck!
This is going to sound weird and unbelievable but was my experience.
We rebuild a Lycoming aircraft engine and broke it in by the book. All was well but the oil consumption was more than I thought it should be. However it was just inside the “acceptable” oil use stated by Lycoming. One day I related this to an old school type mechanic and he asked what oil I was using. Aeroshell semi-synthetic. He said change to Phillips 66 straight mineral oil. I asked why was it that much better? Nope, but sometimes an engine just won’t like one oil or the other, if you had said Phillips I would have recommended going to Aeroshell.
Baffled and thinking this was more “wives tale” I switched at the next oil change and the oil consumption dropped more than 75%! At the next oil change I went back to Aeroshell since there was still some on the shelf and oil consumption went back up. Went back to Phillips and gave away my last few bottles of Aeroshell. I can’t explain it but that engine just didn’t like Aeroshell but only after the overhaul.
Switching brands and viscosity might be an interesting experiment for you to try.
The only other thing that I can think of is you may have a stuck piston ring after it sat for a while. In that case I would try what ever brand of “magic snake oil” additive you want. Something like Marvel Mystery oil, Sea Foam, etc. Something to help clean and maybe free up a stuck ring. Of course, they sometimes correct themselves with some use.
If the simple things don’t make a difference you may have to pull the head to see what is going on inside the engine. I have never done that on this model engine, but it seems pretty straight forward and should be easy especially with so few hours on it.
Have you had this tractor since new? If not, do you know what oil is in the engine?
Which engine is in a 2013?
Was the fuel tank full while it was parked? If not I would at least drain the sediment bowl and check for contamination. If any is found I would also replace the fuel filter, just because of the potential for “diesel bugs”. I don’t think diesel has the same aging problems that gasoline does, as long as you keep it water free.
In any case, yes blue indicates burning oil. I have seen new air cooled gas engines that were not properly broken in develop a glaze on the cylinder walls and the rings could not get seated properly so they burned oil like crazy. Don’t know if this could be a problem with a liquid cooled diesel or not, but it is something to think about.
You could pull samples from the fuel, crankcase and coolant for analysis. That will give you confirmation of quality/usefulness and tell if there are any cross contamination issues. At least that way you will have a baseline of information.
Even if everything tests ok, I would consider changing oil and filter at a minimum. Run it a few hours and pull another oil sample for comparison
Good luck and let us know what you find out.
There isn’t a lot of activity on this list anymore, many have moved on to other sites. Also at some point in the past the posts from “back in the day” were lost and a lot of information was gone too.
I’m not sure that splitting a tractor happens all that often. My 284 is 15 years old with 800+ hours and it has never been split. Might have to next time I use it though…
In any case, it is not a particularly hard thing to do, just terribly time consuming. Some 50 years ago my dad had to split an old Case tractor. We did it without an overhead crane, engine hoist or even a floor jack. It might take me a while to scrounge up all the items I would need and some looking and thinking time but I am confident I could do the 284 by myself.
The biggest issue most people have is if they had the clutch off the flywheel, getting it lined back up properly can be tricky. A pilot hole alignment pin is most helpful there. Many replacement clutches come with this handy aid as a part of the kit.
Another thing I remember was my dad used a couple of long “Redi-rod” to pull it back together.
Are you needing to split your tractor? If so, why?
There are a few videos on the internet that will show you the general procedure.
Let us know if you have specific questions and we will try to help.
