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When you step on the clutch you first feel the resistance of the pedal spring, then as the throwout bearing begins to move the transmission pressure plate you will feel more resistance and if in gear the tractor should stop moving but the PTO would keep turning if in use. As you continue to press the pedal the transmission pressure plate “picks up” the PTO pressure plate moves it away from the flywheel and dis-engages the PTO driven disc stopping everything.
As the clutch discs wear they get thinner and the pressure plate can no longer squeeze then tightly enough to keep them spinning under load and they slip. Slipping is bad as it can “burn up” the fiber in the disc and actually heat damage the pressure plates.
On your dual stage clutch there are three things to adjust. The free travel of the pedal before the throwout bearing contacts the clutch, the travel of the transmission pressure plate and the travel of the PTO pressure plate. These things have to all be in sync for it to work properly.
Free travel of the pedal is adjusted externally by moving the clevis on the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank that turns the rod going into the bell housing. The clutch plate adjustments are done through the side ports on the bell housing, this is where the FEL brackets attach.
The first time I did adjustments I completely removed the FEL, but then I figured a way to jack up the left side of the FEL and just remove the left bracket. Either way works fine.
The pin that sometimes gets sheared is what connects the bellcrank to the shaft that goes into the bell housing and is external so you can easily see it. If this shears, the pedal and bell crank move but the shaft does not and when you step on the clutch nothing happens. This is opposite of the problem you described but cleaning the paint off of the end of that shaft and bellcrank and using a witness mark to confirm the integrity of the pin is a good idea.
There are three adjusting nuts for each pressure plate and the goal is to adjust them so they apply equal pressure all the way around the disc and they lift the pressure plate off of the disc evenly all the way around. Remember that if you are adjusting for normal wear of the disc you will be moving the pressure plate towards the flywheel to take up the extra space.
I think you can follow the procedures in the manual and documentation and do just fine. It is cramped work space and hard to see in there but is completely doable without putting it on the bench like the manual says. One hint I can give is to number each adjusting spot on each plate so that you can keep track of which one you need to work on next. Also a quick web search may turn up some videos about how to do this.
Let us know if you have questions and also the results of your efforts. It may help others in the future.
Reading through your description it seems that you have an owners manual that shows the clutch diagram. Take a look at the manual I posted here: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html (operation manual) and see if it is the same. Starting on page 22 it goes through the clutch adjusting procedure and is a pretty good explanation, but it took me actually looking at the clutch to completely wrap my head around it. Also on the same web page is a “Documentation” manual that has things worded a little differently starting on page 29. There is lots of other good info in there. Feel free to download a copy of anything on my site.
It seems you have a basic understanding but let’s go over clutch basics and define a few terms so we know what each other is saying.
The clutch is engaged when your foot is off the pedal and it is supposed to dis-engage when the pedal is fully depressed.
The clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel and consist of the housing, springs, pressure plate and disc. The springs squeeze the disc between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
The disc is splined onto the input shaft to the transmission and quits turning when you dis-engage the clutch.
The pedal actuates a throwout bearing which then pushes against the clutch over-riding the built in spring pressure and moving the pressure plate away from the disc allowing it to stop spinning.
Our tractors with two stage clutches has an additional clutch disc that is connected to the PTO drive shaft. The transmission drive shaft is hollow and the PTO shaft goes through it to the PTO gears. The PTO disc is located next to the flywheel and there is a secondary pressure plate between the PTO and Trans discs (driven).
There is an external spring on the clutch pedal that keeps the pedal retracted and the throwout bearing away from the clutch so it does not spin needlessly.
(cont. in next post)
Yes, the start position should be only a “momentary on” switch and should spring back to the run position when released, just like your car does. If it is broke and the starter remains energized with the engine running you will damage the starter and related parts just as you have described. And probably worse.
There is a cover on the bell housings on each side. If you have a front end loader those covers come off and the loader brackets mount there. If no loader then it is easy to remove the cover to see the clutch. You can adjust the clutch through the opening but you have to split the tractor if the clutch needs replacing.
About all you can see through the opening is the edges of the clutch parts and if the clutch and disc are moving as you push the pedal down.
Two things that are fairly common on these tractors is that if they sit a long time (especially outside) the clutch plate can rust and stick to the disk. Then when you step on the pedal it does not have enough force to pull the plate away from disk and you can not get the transmission to shift while the engine is running.
The other thing that happens is the bell crank is attached to the actuating shaft with a roll pin. Sometimes the roll pin will shear and even though the bell crank is moving the shaft does not and stepping on the pedal has no effect. Put a witness mark across the end of the shaft and the bell crank then step on the pedal and observe to make sure the witness mark does not move.
Both of these scenarios have the same effect, you can not stop the transmission gears with the engine running and the gears will grind as you try to shift into any gear. That does not sound like what you are describing. What you are describing is a clutch that is not closing down on the disk and therefor is not spinning the input shaft of the transmission. About the only thing I can think of that would cause this is all or most of the pressure plate springs in the clutch have broken and it has no clamping force on the disk.
When you step on the pedal do you feel any resistance build up as the pedal goes down? This would be in addition to the pedal return spring that is on the outside of the tractor. If in doubt take that spring off and step on the pedal, there should be at least some resistance and “spring back” from the clutch.
Check out the files section on my web site and you will find some helpful information and pictures of the clutch assembly.
http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html
Let us know what you find
Do you have the owners manual, service manual or parts manuals?
Do you have drum or disk brakes?
All I have to go on is the manuals for the Jinma 284, if that is even the same tractor….
Not sure what you mean by “yoke holder the rod in”.
Are you talking about a shifter fork?
Do you have a parts manual to look at for your tractor? There were a few different designs of transmissions used over the years.
Which gear you are replacing on which shaft?
Post a picture if you can so we know exactly what you are describing.
No breakdown of the box in my parts book either.
Once you disconnect the column shaft you can check the input shaft for free play. If lots of play a new seal is not likely to solve the problem If it is tight, it might be just a seal but I would expect to see a double seal in that application.
If you use your tractor a lot or need it to be ready on short notice I would order a new steering box and take the old one off for repair. If you can stand some down time go ahead and take it apart and see if it can be fixed. For me, I would take the old one apart just to see how it works. Then fix it if possible and have it for a spare. I know from another list that there have been several people with steering issues that have had to replace the box. Usually they involve poor or slow power steering.
That is strange. Could be you just had a defective oil filter. It does happen from time to time. Baldwin is usually a good filter. It could be the cross reference was bad or the filter wasn’t what it said it was on the box.
My 284 has the Y385 engine and I have had good luck with Fram 3600 filters. I think your engine is the QC385 which is EPA compliant for 2012.
The oil filling things gives me two thoughts. If you “fast filled” the valve cover, you maybe flooded all the return galleys at once and had an air-lock set up. It took a few minutes for one of the galleys to clear and let some air escape the crankcase so the rest of the oil could drain in.
My 2006 Y385 is pre EPA crap and it has a plain old breather cap sticking out of the right side of the engine block. It has a metal mesh inside that needs cleaning from time to time. You might look for something like that.
The air line that runs from the oil filler cap to the intake manifold is supposed to extract oil fumes and blow-by and recirculate it into the combustion chamber. That shouldn’t effect oil fill up.
Fill it to the full mark and run it to see what happens.
Let us know either way to help someone else that might have this issue.
Oil leaking at the filter is usually either a wrong filter or a loose filter. Sometimes the gasket from the old filter sticks to the adapter and will cause the new filter to not seal properly.
You listed make model and year of the tractor but what engine is in the tractor?
Can you post a picture of where it was leaking and where you put the oil in?
