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My engine is the Y385T and that is what the book is for, but in some places it shows Y380. Not sure what the differences are.
I have the engine parts book if you ever need anything, I can scan it and send it to you. The drawings are pretty clear.
There is no breakdown of the pump or even the hand pump. The book shows the same part number though.
3I329 (not a 1).
If I remember right, Bob R said it was a copy of a Bosch pump.
I suspect there will always be a little leak-by of diesel from the IP down into the crank sump. The Bosch’s may not leak but the copies are certain to as they are not made to the same tolerances. At least that is my experience with the hydraulic side of these tractors.
Here is my IP data plate.
Apologies: I previously said the lift pump had two bolts. It actually had 3 studs.
Hope this helps
There is a little o-ring on the plunger between the crankshaft side and the fuel side. I couldn’t keep one working in there. An absolutely wrong seal type for that application.
I had an old solenoid type impulse fuel pump on the shelf so I made a bracket and mounted that. Since I had done the Ranch Hand upgrade to the fuel bowl connecting the supply side was easy. I discovered that if you cut the ferrule off of the banjo fittings they just slide right out and 1/4″ ID fuel hose would slide on. I made a new hose to go from the new pump to the fuel filter using one of the banjo ends and hose clamps. Wired the fuel pump to the hot side of the key switch and it will move fuel up into the filter until the internal pressure limit is hit then turn off. It rarely makes more than one stroke when operating properly. No need for a hand primer pump.
The lift pump is held to the IP with two bolts. I had some pieces of aluminum about 1/8″ thick laying around so I traced the shape of the pump housing and made a plate. Cut out a gasket and covered it all up. Hasn’t been off since.
I can post pictures if you like.
Hi David,
I don’t have any information about the new style pump but on my 284 the fuel leak was from the lift pump. I replaced it with an electric pump and just made a plate and gasket to cover the hole.
I put a clear tube on the overflow elbow and stuck a bold in the end to plug the tube. That way I can see if there is any overflow. Usually a teaspoon full in about 50 hours. I think it might be fuel from the IP but I change oil every 100 hours with the engine so it doesn’t matter unless it gets worse.
You know, on second look it may not be that tight of a fit.
The diameter of the combined half washers is larger than the washer (38) next to the bearing. Then the gear slides down over the half washers capturing them on the shaft. The gear is captured in place by the inner bearing that is seated against the inside housing. The outer bearing and washer 38 are all captured in place by the cover (35).
It may all just fall apart once you take the cover off. That would be a lot more along the lines of thought the Chinese use when putting these things together. They don’t use extra complicated procedures when simple stuff will do.
Let us know what happens!
Hi Ron,
I haven’t had that part of my hubs apart. I replaced the seals between #42 and standing shaft housing #25. Something I would call a king pin housing. Interesting that they use the same seals in both applications.
It sounds like the gear is a press fit on the shaft and the two half washers are the friction surface. I have never seen that before and if that is all that holds the wheels (shaft #33) onto the tractor it seems a little iffy to me.
Based on the surface area of the washers it must be a pretty tight press fit. It would take a pretty good gear puller to get it off of the shaft if that is the case.
It looks like there is room enough between the gear and the cover to get a press plate in there for use in a hydraulic shop press but building the supports to reach around the shaft and cover will be a challenge.
From the drawing in the frontaxleservice.pdf it looks like you won’t have to move the gear very far to clear the half washers. I never would have guessed that is what they are or their purpose just looking that the drawing. And the way the gear is tight to the shoulder on the shaft you would never guess that there were half washers inside.
If you can, please post pictures as you take it apart.
Hi Ron,
I’m not sure I follow your reference to two half washers.
Here are some diagrams with numbers. What seal are you after and what gear is in your way?
I have only had mine apart far enough to replace seal numbers 28,29 and 30 from the parts diagram. That was a real pain and I had to put speedi-sleeves on the shaft where the dirt in the old seals had worn groves in the housing. Don’t scrape the gasket off of the top cap, it is a thickness shim used to set the backlash on the gears. As long as you aren’t messing with the gears, everything should be fine just putting it back together. Unless of course your backlash needs adjusting.
Good work Len. I would say that the fuse box mounting leaves a little to be desired. It is subject to a great deal of vibration being out on that long moment arm and the grounding back through all those bolted connections is bound to introduce resistance to the circuits. Nickle based anti-seize is your friend on all those bolts. A cross brace a the end of the bar holding the horn would help a lot. The brass ends that are crimped on the wires will work harden and break. Ask me how I know….
Hi Len,
No, don’t wire it to the idiot light. That could mess up the voltage regulator.
The purpose of the amp meter is to show current flow of the whole system.
Follow the positive wire from the battery to the post on the starter. That is just a connection point and does not involve the starter motor. It then goes through the master fuse (30 A) and then to the gauge then to the hot side of the switch. With the key off, nothing is flowing anywhere. When you turn the key to run, then all other circuits (except the alternator) are fed through the switch. If you trace the wires you will see that the idiot light is connected to the regulator and is not fed through the amp meter.
David was right, if you take the hot wire off of the switch (the one from the 30A fuse) and put it on the gauge where it is marked – Then connect the the gauge side marked + back to the switch where you took the other wire off you will have the gauge inserted into the main trunk of the system. It will be in the circuit between the alternator and the battery where it can indicate flow to/from the battery.
I am surprised you tractor didn’t have a gauge in the first place. Do you have a wiring diagram for your specific tractor? Jinma usually put little plastic tags with numbers on the wires for identification.
What you described as a horn sure sounds like it is. A picture would tell for sure. Also, there is a relay involved. If you are seeing battery voltage at the switch but nothing happens there are two possibilities. 1) the switch is not connecting to ground or 2) the relay is not closing properly. Follow the path from the battery, through the fuse and down to the relay. From there you can see where completing the circuit through the switch will activate the relay and connect terminals 30 and 87 internally.
To test the horn connect a jumper wire to a hot connection point (battery, starter, or B terminal on alternator) and momentarily touch the terminal on the horn. Also, you can put a test light or VOM on the terminal and watch it while hitting the switch. No light is probably a switch or relay problem. If you are getting power to the horn but no sound it is a ground problem or a bad horn. You can replace it with any 12V horn you can find at any auto store.
