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That is strange. Could be you just had a defective oil filter. It does happen from time to time. Baldwin is usually a good filter. It could be the cross reference was bad or the filter wasn’t what it said it was on the box.
My 284 has the Y385 engine and I have had good luck with Fram 3600 filters. I think your engine is the QC385 which is EPA compliant for 2012.
The oil filling things gives me two thoughts. If you “fast filled” the valve cover, you maybe flooded all the return galleys at once and had an air-lock set up. It took a few minutes for one of the galleys to clear and let some air escape the crankcase so the rest of the oil could drain in.
My 2006 Y385 is pre EPA crap and it has a plain old breather cap sticking out of the right side of the engine block. It has a metal mesh inside that needs cleaning from time to time. You might look for something like that.
The air line that runs from the oil filler cap to the intake manifold is supposed to extract oil fumes and blow-by and recirculate it into the combustion chamber. That shouldn’t effect oil fill up.
Fill it to the full mark and run it to see what happens.
Let us know either way to help someone else that might have this issue.
Oil leaking at the filter is usually either a wrong filter or a loose filter. Sometimes the gasket from the old filter sticks to the adapter and will cause the new filter to not seal properly.
You listed make model and year of the tractor but what engine is in the tractor?
Can you post a picture of where it was leaking and where you put the oil in?
My engine is the Y385T and that is what the book is for, but in some places it shows Y380. Not sure what the differences are.
I have the engine parts book if you ever need anything, I can scan it and send it to you. The drawings are pretty clear.
There is no breakdown of the pump or even the hand pump. The book shows the same part number though.
3I329 (not a 1).
If I remember right, Bob R said it was a copy of a Bosch pump.
I suspect there will always be a little leak-by of diesel from the IP down into the crank sump. The Bosch’s may not leak but the copies are certain to as they are not made to the same tolerances. At least that is my experience with the hydraulic side of these tractors.
Here is my IP data plate.
Apologies: I previously said the lift pump had two bolts. It actually had 3 studs.
Hope this helps
There is a little o-ring on the plunger between the crankshaft side and the fuel side. I couldn’t keep one working in there. An absolutely wrong seal type for that application.
I had an old solenoid type impulse fuel pump on the shelf so I made a bracket and mounted that. Since I had done the Ranch Hand upgrade to the fuel bowl connecting the supply side was easy. I discovered that if you cut the ferrule off of the banjo fittings they just slide right out and 1/4″ ID fuel hose would slide on. I made a new hose to go from the new pump to the fuel filter using one of the banjo ends and hose clamps. Wired the fuel pump to the hot side of the key switch and it will move fuel up into the filter until the internal pressure limit is hit then turn off. It rarely makes more than one stroke when operating properly. No need for a hand primer pump.
The lift pump is held to the IP with two bolts. I had some pieces of aluminum about 1/8″ thick laying around so I traced the shape of the pump housing and made a plate. Cut out a gasket and covered it all up. Hasn’t been off since.
I can post pictures if you like.
Hi David,
I don’t have any information about the new style pump but on my 284 the fuel leak was from the lift pump. I replaced it with an electric pump and just made a plate and gasket to cover the hole.
I put a clear tube on the overflow elbow and stuck a bold in the end to plug the tube. That way I can see if there is any overflow. Usually a teaspoon full in about 50 hours. I think it might be fuel from the IP but I change oil every 100 hours with the engine so it doesn’t matter unless it gets worse.
You know, on second look it may not be that tight of a fit.
The diameter of the combined half washers is larger than the washer (38) next to the bearing. Then the gear slides down over the half washers capturing them on the shaft. The gear is captured in place by the inner bearing that is seated against the inside housing. The outer bearing and washer 38 are all captured in place by the cover (35).
It may all just fall apart once you take the cover off. That would be a lot more along the lines of thought the Chinese use when putting these things together. They don’t use extra complicated procedures when simple stuff will do.
Let us know what happens!
Hi Ron,
I haven’t had that part of my hubs apart. I replaced the seals between #42 and standing shaft housing #25. Something I would call a king pin housing. Interesting that they use the same seals in both applications.
It sounds like the gear is a press fit on the shaft and the two half washers are the friction surface. I have never seen that before and if that is all that holds the wheels (shaft #33) onto the tractor it seems a little iffy to me.
Based on the surface area of the washers it must be a pretty tight press fit. It would take a pretty good gear puller to get it off of the shaft if that is the case.
It looks like there is room enough between the gear and the cover to get a press plate in there for use in a hydraulic shop press but building the supports to reach around the shaft and cover will be a challenge.
From the drawing in the frontaxleservice.pdf it looks like you won’t have to move the gear very far to clear the half washers. I never would have guessed that is what they are or their purpose just looking that the drawing. And the way the gear is tight to the shoulder on the shaft you would never guess that there were half washers inside.
If you can, please post pictures as you take it apart.
Hi Ron,
I’m not sure I follow your reference to two half washers.
Here are some diagrams with numbers. What seal are you after and what gear is in your way?
I have only had mine apart far enough to replace seal numbers 28,29 and 30 from the parts diagram. That was a real pain and I had to put speedi-sleeves on the shaft where the dirt in the old seals had worn groves in the housing. Don’t scrape the gasket off of the top cap, it is a thickness shim used to set the backlash on the gears. As long as you aren’t messing with the gears, everything should be fine just putting it back together. Unless of course your backlash needs adjusting.
